Corsican Ordeal (II)

This happened

A rocky beach topped by the ruins of a fort, with a ferry in the background

The old port of L'Île-Rousse, Corsica. Photo by Jean-Pol GRANDMONT CC BY-SA 3.0 (Mods)

Reading time: 2 minutes

Return to Blog Home
June 16th, 2020 at 7:36pm

Please consider disabling your ad blocker, it disrupts site functions in addition to blocking ads. Thank you!

Still wrong about dodging.

Multiple sorties of F-bombs were launched and replenished.

This is Part 2. Part 1 is here.

Outside, a dozen kids between the ages of fifteen and eighteen returned every insult. One furiously punched codes into the lock, trying to open the front door.

I think we dodged a bullet, I told myself as I dozed off.

After five minutes, during which time I tried to pry each guy away from the window and lead him upstairs, everyone's fire had extinguished. With the parting gift of a gesture and one last obscene name, my group went back to their rooms.

And still wrong

We spent the next day at the beach. I took an afternoon nap which turned into a deep sleep, and I woke around 8pm, disoriented and hungry.

As I walked into town, two taxis screeched to a stop. "Get in!" my brother yelled. "They're coming!"

I jumped into the passenger seat. "Who's coming?"

Cicero didn't weep from the grave, but it was effective nonetheless.

"They started throwing rocks at us!" my brother yelled. "Now they're on mopeds, there's like twenty of them!"

And then I said something I will never forget. Cicero didn't weep from the grave, but it was effective nonetheless. "I don't know about you dickheads, but I will not be a prisoner in our hotel tonight." I repeated it in French for the driver. With an approving nod, he peeled out and returned to town.

A minute later, we stood in front of a restaurant near the beach. A man who looked like Tony Soprano screamed at two kids wearing spiked gloves, buzzing past on mopeds. He muttered a curse, then looked at me. "They say the older one speaks French. Is that you?" We shook hands. "Call me Charlie," he said with a smile. "Come in!"

It may have been worth it

He led us to a reserved table on a terrace overlooking the water. We continued to hear mopeds circling the block. Charlie looked at a table of young local men—black hair, suntans, bandanas—and jerked a thumb over his shoulder. Two of them went downstairs. Five minutes later, the mopeds were gone.

Boats in a harbor with red fishing nets in the foreground and mountains in the background

The port of L'Île-Rousse, Corsica. Photo by Jean-Pol GRANDMONT CC BY-SA 3.0 (Mods)

Strands of Christmas lights glowed in the breezy summer night. The first round of drinks was on the house. We ate pizza and seafood pasta. We flirted with a table of Swiss women. We bought carafes of vin de Corse for them as well as the table of locals.

An impromptu contest broke out where each table would sing a song and everyone would listen respectfully, then applaud. We brought the house down with Sympathy for the Devil.

After dinner, Charlie invited us to the bar on the ground floor.

The locals came over to talk to me. "Listen," one of them said, "we're sorry about those punks you had to deal with."

"Thank you."

"You're going to be with us tonight," he stated. "No one will bother you. We're going to a club later. You'll like it."

And then...the reveal

I have no idea why he said it so obviously, or if it was even true.

"We're terrorists. We want the French to go back to the mainland."

"You've seen the images of Corsica around town?" he asked, drawing a vertical line and triangle with his finger.

I nodded.

"That's us. We're terrorists. We want the French to go back to the mainland."

We're terrorists. Nowadays, those words are far more frightening than they were in 1992, but still: they rang in my ears.

"The important thing is to go back home and tell everyone to come to Corsica. It's beautiful, people are nice. We only have a problem with the French government, and even then, when we bomb their buildings, we do it when no one's inside."

I nodded slowly.

Later, we went to the nightclub a few blocks away. We drank for free in a private bar off the dance floor, and everyone was our friend that night. They laughed at our stories and taught us Corsican songs.

As dawn broke and I reached behind the bar for one last drink, an older gentleman a couple of seats down called out to the bartender and pointed at me. I had poured myself a few throughout the night, but this time the bartender said, "That'll be eighty francs." (≈$15)

We brought the house down with Sympathy for the Devil.

Looking around, I noticed the terrorists were all gone. My brother and his friends were, too.

After paying, I stood alone at the bar for a minute, feeling every bit out of place as I was. I exited the club and groaned like a vampire as the Mediterranean sun blinded me. We had a plane to catch in three hours.

 Cliché Interview Question Corsican Ordeal (I) 

Blog Home

Add a comment

Comments

There are no comments for this post yet. Be the first!

Recent Posts

A Month in Siena  10/16/2023

Eyewitness Travel: France  4/24/2023

L'Africain du Groenland  8/2/2022

On the Plain of Snakes  5/17/2022

Volcanoes, Palm Trees, and Privilege  3/22/2022

L'axe du loup  2/28/2022

The Art of Travel  12/31/2021

Postcard: Los Angeles  11/5/2021

Afropean  8/6/2021

Roadrunner  7/22/2021

Archive

Show more

About

A smiling Francis and me, sitting outside in front of some shrubs

Some basics

A brief biographical sketch

Me on top of a sunny Mt Pilatus in Switzerland, with mountains in the background

Travel

Pardon the saccharine and the obvious, but travel is everything

A couple standing in front of a large Gothic church, on a bridge over the Seine

France

France deserves its own section

Francis, as a two year-old in a car seat, in sunglasses reading a French picture book

Reading

The bullshit of daily life? I'd rather read.

Stage with musicians going at it—they're Gogol Bordello, and they're crazy

Music

Let me take you back

Little boy sitting on a big white bed, looking at a tablet

Television

I watch a lot more television than movies

Live action from a soccer game at Crew Stadium—yellow versus blue

Soccer

The only sport that matters

Ugly photo of a pig knuckle after it's been eaten—really, it looks horrible

Food

As a travel writer, I have to talk about food

Me in an outdoor restaurant drinking from a green coconut with a long straw

Dumb stuff

You will not feel smarter after reading this

Dumpster full of garbage

Minimalism

Trying to live simply

Me getting out of a red Ferrari F430 with a guy clapping for me

Other Interests

I've only driven a Ferrari once

Dude wearing orange pants and orange and green shoes walking on wet grass

Get off my lawn

A few brief rants

Recent Tweets

If you toggle the switch above the words "Recent Tweets" and it still says, "Nothing to see here - yet," it means the idiot who broke Twitter either hasn't gotten around to fixing this feature, or intentionally broke it to get us to pay for it (which is moronic, I can easily live without it and it generated traffic to his site).